If you use a step drill, get the shorter stubby ones, not the ones that are a couple of inches long. The step drill bit, I have found, works best, as it keeps the bit centered as it steps through the larger hole sizes. If not, it may walk or overheat, burning your paint. Important - make sure bits are new and very sharp! This is critical. I've used 5/16ths and it works fine, which is also one of the sizes on my step bit. However, those exact sizes are hard to find. Tools to fabricate aluminum bar (one time thing): including vise, hammer, pliers, file/grinder (1" rotary drum sander in drill press is better), 1/8" drill bit.įinal hole size is 7.6 mm, or 19/64ths to be exact, for RivNut described above. Small electric or air drill, preferably right angleĭrill bit sized to RivNut, as well as smaller bit for pilot holeĮdit: Just found this 19/64ths step drill bit, which would be perfect for this, as it is its own pilot and perfect hole size: "L" shaped hex/allen wrench to fit M5 bolt One piece of 1/8" x 1" aluminum bar, about 6" long You'll probably use them in the future.Īt least one M5 x 0.80 bolt with hex socket head, about 2 cm long (get several though) When you order, since they are cheap get a bunch. I've tried stainless steel, too, but they are just too darn hard, and I've stripped bolts and nuts trying to install them. Ribbed "L" Series Rivet Nuts - RN58033ALRĬan find them many places, but here's one (Google the part number) RivNuts - M5 x 0.80 threads (metric) splined aluminum I've done this on a bunch of bikes, now, and have for the most part perfected the technique. Step 4 –The second material is set into place and a screw or bolt completes the assembly.Since track bikes almost always do not include water bottle mounts, and since someone asked, here is a guide to installing them. Step 3– The mandrel disengages from the nut, which has now formed a collar on the blind side of the workpiece. Step 2 –The mandrel on the installation tool attaches to the nut for insertion of the nut into the hole. Step 1–The user drills a hole into the material. Rivet nut installation is a basically a three-step process. These are installed using a special tool with a threaded stud (nose) that engages with the internal threads of the rivet nut an pulls upwards, in turn deforming the unthreaded section of the rivet nut to expand under the reverse side side of the material, providing a high strength permanent thread in a thin sheet material. Enabling reduced countersunk rivet nuts to be installed in post-painted or pre-coated applications without damaging the surface. The reduced countersunk head also known as thin sheet rivet nuts allows this type of rivet nut to be used in applications without any extra hole preparation, providing a low profile flush fit to the application. The knurled body of the reduced countersunk rivet nut provides increased resistance to turning in the application, especially when installed in softer materials. The open end style rivet nut allows the stud or male threaded component to thread through the rivet nut without limiting the length or protrusion of the male threaded part. These rivet nut fasteners are a form of internally threaded insert and are used in applications where the material (wall) thickness is too small to tap a conventional thread, therefore by using rivet nuts a strong thread is created in thin sheets of material for high strength fastening from bolts and other threaded articles. Reduced countersunk (thin sheet) rivet nuts with a knurled body and open end are also commonly know as Rivnuts, Blind Nuts, Thin Sheet Nuts and Nutserts.
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